LVR Explores the Iconic Antico Setificio

Antico Setificio creates some of the most coveted textiles in the world. LuisaViaRoma had the opportunity to go behind the scenes of the iconic factory and showroom untouched by time in San Frediano, Florence. The factory showcases generations of craftsmanship, expertise and traditions dated back to the Renaissance. Read on for an exclusive interview about the history, expertise, and love for textiles with Antico Setificio.

Spanning since the era of the Renaissance, silk has been an icon of wealth and importance in Florence, especially with noble families. Within the middle of the 18th century wealthy Florentine families such as Gherardesca, Pucci, Bartolozzi, Corsini and Agresti came together to establish a workshop that would serve as a home for their family looms, patterns, and fabrics. This workshop was later relocated to its renown current location and became known as Antico Setificio. The Antique Florentine silk mill since then has been dreaming up and creating some of the worlds most sought-after fabrics and textiles. The prestigious workshop was acquisitioned by Pucci during the 1950s, along with other luxury shareholders. Since 2010, Antico Setificio was acquired by Stefano Ricci group thus further preserving and ensuring a strong future of craftsmanship and luxurious quality.

LVR: The history of Antico Setificio is deeply-rooted within the city of Florence. Do you believe that the link between the company and the Tuscan capital is still as strong as it was during the Renaissance?

Antico Setificio:  Being born and bred in Florence is one of our biggest qualities. Our looms still live today in the San Frediano district, in the true heart of Florence. The city of Florence is portrayed within every one of our collections, orders and projects. Our brocades and damasks carry the names of the most illustrious noble Florentine families, which is the reputation that our customers are looking for.  For the customer, when they enter our doors at Via Bartolini 4, they are hoping to buy a little piece of Florence to bring into their homes.

LVR: Has the way you produce silk changed over the years? Have the traditional weaving techniques been modernized?

Antico Setificio:  Absolutely not, the techniques have remained unchanged. Our handlooms are still the original ones used from the 1700s, producing about 1m per day. The semi-mechanical ones are also still the same ones as those used from the 1800s, producing about 10m per day. Nothing has changed or been modernized in relation to the weaving.  The only exception to the modernization of our process is the management of production, which has been updated thanks to the investments of the Ricci family. With the help of current technology, things that were once done by hand such as the management of coding, the warehouse, our archive and drawings, are now being easily managed with cutting-edge programs and qualified personnel.

LVR: Why is the concept of Made in Italy so important?

Antico Setificio:  Made in Italy is what consumers demand due to the notion that it has been “done with care”. In an increasingly industrial and avant-garde world, Made in Italy enhances the value behind our world-renowned, in-demand workers and craftsmanship. The Made in Italy concept exhibits the care and research that is done regarding the quality of raw material and various processes, most importantly being handmade. Antico Setificio Fiorentino is one of the most significant Italian organizations that embodies the Made in Italy and Made in Florence values.

LVR: What can you tell us about the warping machine made in the late 17^th century according to Leonardo da Vinci’s original design?

Antico Setificio:  Leonardo da Vinci’s warping machine remains one of our most important gems. Just as in the past, we still manufacture the warps for our trimmings by hand using this machine. Years ago, after being constantly requested in many important events such as that of the luxury fair in Venice, our family came to the conclusion that we would create a copy of the machine in order not to damage the original throughout the disassembling and reassembling process. The original is used exclusively for production and can be emotionally moving to witness the operation in person while the machine works to produce the warping for our trimmings, such as fringes, cords and braids.

LVR: How have the recent acquisitions, first by Pucci, then by Stefano Ricci, helped Antico Setificio to enter the international market?

Antico Setificio:  Certainly the acquisition by two fashion companies, Pucci and Stefano Ricci, helped Antico Setificio Fiorentino enhance the part of fusing style and renewed creativity. The investments made were huge and increased the value of our company, as well as our ability to innovate while remaining faithful to our inherent tradition. Stefano Ricci, with 60 stores worldwide, has also contributed to expanding the already prestigious clientele of the silk factory by giving it an even more international feel.

LVR: Why is craftsmanship so important today, especially in textiles?

Antico Setificio:  Craftsmanship in textiles is paramount in guaranteeing a unique and “well-made” product that many companies and individuals seek. Artisan garments guarantee attention to detail, durability over time, and colors that don’t fade. There are currently buildings still furnished with our fabrics produced over 100 years ago, preserving their original beauty. Our company continues to craft high-quality fabrics despite the overwhelming amount of low-cost options recently made available.

LVR: You produce 10 types of silk: What makes them so special?

Antico Setificio:  We also produce more than just 10 types of silk, varying according to the working method used. Our archive boasts of several unique and incomparable fabrics. Undoubtedly what makes each fabric unique is the weaving technique, the looms, the compositions of either 100% silk or silk/linen, and the designs that belong exclusively to our historical archive.

LVR: With fabrics and silk, Antico Setificio was able to specialize in home décor, household linen and menswear. What are the future plans?

Antico Setificio: Our future projects are undoubtedly related to the residences of our customers. Our commitment is to carry on our collections in order to continuously make the homes of our customers, architects and interiors more beautiful. Thanks to the investment of the company made by my family, the Ricci family, the commitment is to grow even stronger within the worlds of the hotel and nautical sectors. We are also developing a new collection for our customers’ children. The world of Stefano Ricci then opened the doors for Antico Setificio to the world of fashion, and thanks to him, some fabrics today are the flagship of his collections. For example,  our silks were use to make some tuxedo jackets for celebrities such as Andrea Bocelli and Morgan Freeman. We are also developing new experiences in our company, to create unforgettable moments for those who decide to visit with a touch of Renaissance.

Antico Setificio boasts a long series of projects, including restorations and reproductions for royal residences worldwide. What are you working on at the moment? What was the most significant project?

Antico Setificio: We certainly maintain confidentiality for our customers’ projects: we have worked and work for many royal families both in terms of new supplies and restorations. All projects that excite us a lot.

LVR: What were you inspired by for the exclusive collection for LuisaViaRoma?

Antico Setificio: The LuisaViaRoma boutique was a great incentive for us to create. It was created in collaboration with Sara Ricciardi and Valentina Guidi Ottobri displaying a “desk” collection in exclusive colors and fabrics. It was fun to design a collection that could match the layout of the shop and the whole project. When taking part in these type of events, the challenge is always to be able to make our fabrics more contemporary. We therefore created bookends, throws, pen holders and empty pockets, colored with innovative lines: our damask birds and peacocks were the protagonists. The inspiration came from the colors and scents of Sara Ricciardi’s magical Eden garden.

LVR: After so many collaborations and exclusive projects behind us, what do you wish for the future?

Antico Setificio: For the future, we hope to continue working while maintaining the enthusiasm and the pursuit of perfection that distinguishes us. We also hope to still obtain many satisfactions from our projects: especially future ones that look very ambitious and original.

Antico Setificio at LuisaViaRoma