WRITTEN BY NAV GILL
Nike has had plenty of collaborators in its 50+ year history, but one of the most revered in recent years has to be sacai. Founded by Japanese designer (and COMME des GARÇONS and Junya Watanabe alumna) Chitose Abe in 1999, sacai has become one of the most influential labels in bridging the gap between premium streetwear and high fashion.
In 2015, sacai kicked off its longstanding Nike partnership, bringing its signature hybridized design approach to the mainstream through an apparel collection and Air Max 90 collaboration with NikeLab. In the six years since, sacai has produced a slew of highly coveted collaborative silhouettes with the legendary sports brand, including the Nike x sacai LDWaffle, which debuted on the runway at Paris Fashion Week and was swiftly named Complex’s Sneaker of The Year 2021. Here, we dive into the archives to present a retrospective of some of the best Nike x sacai collaborations of all time—check out which made the list.
Founded by Japanese designer (and COMME des GARÇONS and Junya Watanabe alumna) Chitose Abe in 1999, sacai has become one of the most influential labels in bridging the gap between premium streetwear and high fashion.
Nike x sacai Air Max 90
The debut collaboration between sacai and Nike came in the form of a sleek Air Max 90—designed exclusively for women. To transform this classic silhouette under the themes of expression and freedom of movement, Abe chose to forgo laces and the eyestay entirely, resulting in a slip-on sneaker with an elasticized tongue for additional comfort and fit. The oversized mudguard, which extended almost seamlessly from the midsole, delivered an additional feminine touch, thanks to its wedge-like appearance from afar. This collab was crafted from premium leathers and arrived in a trio of colorblocked finishes—Wolf Gray; Obsidian, and Nike’s signature neon hue, Volt.
To transform this classic silhouette under the themes of expression and freedom of movement, Abe chose to forgo laces and the eyestay entirely, resulting in a slip-on sneaker with an elasticized tongue for additional comfort and fit.
Nike x sacai Dunk Lux
The sophomore collab followed a similar suit to sacai’s take on the earlier Nike Air Max 90. Putting a streamlined spin on the sporty Nike Dunk. Once more, the sneakers adopted a laceless finish, albeit this time on a high-top silhouette. Colorways stayed the same, with dark Obsidian, light Wolf Gray and vibrant Volt taking over the entirety of the premium leather uppers—including the Swoosh.
For the Holiday 2015 season, sacai delivered yet another instalment of its Nike Dunk Lux collaboration. This time, the Japanese brand deferred from the color palette it previously favored, instead paying homage to the varsity-inspired finish the Dunk is famous for. In keeping with its predecessors, the laces were noticeably missing from this slip-on high-top, but all the premium touches were ever present. Four different colorways made an appearance in this drop—neutral tones of White/Navy, White/Gray, Gray/Navy, and the standout style, a mustard Yellow/Navy combo.
“This time, the Japanese brand deferred from the color palette it previously favored, instead paying homage to the varsity-inspired finish the Dunk is famous for.”
Nike x sacai LDWaffle
Now, this is the collab that truly got sneakerheads everywhere to start paying attention to sacai. Abe mashed up two retro Nike running shoes, the LDV and the Waffle Racer, taking key elements from each and merging them to form one incredibly unique silhouette: the LDWaffle. Double the sneakers, double the fun. The dual details on this pair includes layered mesh and suede construction, two Swooshes, extra shoelaces, and a doubled-up tongue. Eagle-eyed fashion fans will have spotted the first two iterations from this drop during sacai’s SS19 PFW show, in Green/Maize/Orange and Blue/Red/Del Sol colorways, which became a social media hit as soon as they landed on the runway. A delayed general release date only added to their appeal, leading to these becoming one of the brand’s most coveted collaborations and Complex’s Sneaker of The Year 2019.
This is the collab that truly got sneakerheads everywhere to start paying attention to sacai. Abe mashed up two retro Nike running shoes, the LDV and the Waffle Racer, taking key elements from each and merging them to form one incredibly unique silhouette: the LDWaffle.
Following the sellout success of the first drop, sacai returned with three more colorways of this hybrid silhouette. The original Nike x sacai LDWaffle sneakers were already running up high price tags on resale platforms, and sneaker fans clamoured to get their hands on these three new interpretations of the collaboration. This time, lucky consumers could choose from Pine Green, which had hits of deep pink and yellow throughout, or more pared-back neutral tones of black or gray and white.
Nike x sacai Blazer Mid
Taking a cue from the neutral additions to the last LDWaffle release, the duo dropped two neutral versions of the Blazer Mid. The premium uppers and overlapping construction remained the same, but this time, the panels were reimagined in never-out-of-trend tones like Black/Gray/White and White/Gray.
Nike x sacai VaporWaffle
Taking her signature hybridization to new heights, Abe delivered an all-new silhouette comprising two Nike running icons; the relatively new Vaporfly and 1983’s retro Pegasus shoe. Following suit from previous collaborations, the VaporWaffle also went double on the details but the real standout feature was the statement sole, which was elongated and then spliced open at the heel. Two colorways dropped first—Black/White and a Royal Fuchsia iteration—inspired by Joan Benoit Samuelson’s history-making marathon win during the 1984 Olympics.
Taking her signature hybridization to new heights, Abe delivered an all-new silhouette comprising two Nike running icons; the relatively new Vaporfly and 1983’s retro Pegasus shoe
Nike x sacai LDWaffle
The continued demand for this statement silhouette saw the release of yet another sacai take on the Nike LDWaffle. This time, the mesh upper was swapped out for versatile nylon, with the smooth finish given extra depth by panels of leather and textured suede. The monochromatic finish (the sneakers were available in tonal black or white finishes) gave this pair a minimalist feel and really drew attention to key details like the elongated midsole and waffle-tread outsole.
Nike x sacai VaporWaffle
Although the first release of this collaboration focused on somewhat neutral colorways, the second drop was slightly more maximalist. The design itself remained unchanged, but the updated color options included a green and deep “Villain Red” and a bolder iteration in “Tour Yellow,” offset by hits of forest green.
Nike x sacai Blazer Low
In the following months, two more versions of the collaborative Blazer Low were released. As the weather got colder, the color palette was suitably updated to more muted shades. Iron Gray and white was unveiled as a great option for pairing with those cold-toned outfits, but for those looking for something a little warmer, there was also a British Tan colorway available with flashes of red.
For summer 2021, sacai and Nike brought back the blazer—this time in low-top format. Much like the Blazer mid, this sneaker featured additional rubber reinforcements around the heel and above the sole, as well as the extra tongue and Swoosh logos, which by now have become emblematic of the Nike x sacai collaborations. In keeping with the season, these were first offered in fresh white color options, with accents of Magma Orange and Classic Green.
Nike x sacai x Fragment LDWaffle
In August 2021, sacai revealed it would be teaming up with three brands for the latest renditions of its Nike LDWaffle. First up was Japanese label Fragment Design, helmed by Hiroshi Fujiwara. The initial silhouette arrived in a cool gray tone, crafted from panels of durable mesh and suede. It featured “The Classic / Fragment : sacai” text stamped along the now-iconic midsole, as well as Fragment’s lightning-bolt logo embroidered onto the double-tongue.
The second Nike x sacai x Fragment LDWaffle release was another easy-to-wear sneaker, in a clean white and navy Blue Void finish. The replicated Swooshes take center-stage on this pair as they stand out against the dark blue mesh and suede, and are complemented by an exaggerated whilte midsole beneath.
Nike x sacai x CLOT LDWaffle
The second of the three collaborators came in the form of Hong Kong-based brand CLOT. The initial pairing was inspired by CLOT’s own 2006 Nike Air Max 1 venture, dubbed ‘Kiss of Death.” The subtle references were present through the Orange Blaze colorway, the semi-transparent upper and the snakeskin finish on the Swoosh.
The second of the three collaborators came in the form of Hong Kong-based brand CLOT. The initial pairing was inspired by CLOT’s own 2006 Nike Air Max 1 venture, dubbed ‘Kiss of Death.
CLOT’s second pair-up with sacai and Nike on the LDWaffle was a little more versatile than its first, thanks to the quieter colorway. Instead of vibrant orange, this pair featured a light gray shade with light and dark blue Swooshes on the sidewall. The speckled midsole and breathable mesh and leather upper add to the subtle finish. There’s a little pop of color, however, in the form of the bright green tongue and Nike branding on the heel.
Nike x sacai x Undercover LDWaffle
The final collaborator in Nike and sacai’s three-way partnerships was with Jun Takahashi’s renowned label, Undercover. Following suit from the previous LDWaffle collaborations, this drop had a nylon, suede and leather upper and all the usual details that fans have come to know and love from this hybrid sneaker, like the dual Swooshes and tongues, and the elongated sole. Undercover, however, dropped three colorways in comparison to Fragment and CLOT’s two. The first—and probably the one in highest demand—was the version in Bright Citron, which with its flashes of bright yellow, was a nod to 2019’s Nike x Undercover Daybreak collab. This was followed by an interaction in Night Maroon with blue accents, and one with flashes of Team Royal red against a Midnight Spruce nylon upper.
