LVRSustainable: Zohra Rahman

Lately, we’ve had all of our attention focused on the eponymous jewelry brand Zohra Rahman. Showcasing a strong spotlight on a sustainable and earth friendly ethos, the Pakistan brand has dominated the world of jewelry by incorporating it’s belief that ‘practice makes perfect’. The brand implements on-the-job training and studying as the foundation to creating innovative and impeccable designs. Zohra’s devotion in creating jewelry to empower others as well as keeping things environmentally conscious has given us all the reasons to not only love the brand, but become official ‘fangirls’. Meticulously crafted and fusing boths Eastern and Western worlds, we introduce to you the jewelry designer putting all things sustainability at its forefront: meet Zohra Rahman

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We saw that you support the old-age concepts of apprenticeship, and we love it. But what do you feel jewelers gain from that, more than rather simply studying the craft in school?

I think it’s different. Apprenticeship gives a chance to learn a new skill while one can still earn money. It is more democratic, allowing more to access the craft rather than the few that can afford to go to school for it.

For you is jewelry more art, fashion, or technique? 

It’s a combination — with varying degrees of each according to the design and piece.

You’ve gone from Lahore, Pakistan to studying in London, how do you feel that the two have fused themselves into your design? Do you feel there is a difference when designing for more Western countries in comparison to Eastern countries? 

Yes, especially in South Asia, ornamentation is a big part of the culture. There’s a big influence from its regal, tribal and spiritual history. More is definitely “more” in Pakistan while in the West I find the style to be more minimalist and urban. I have a taste for both and enjoy creating something personal that draws from my influences — something that would relate to a more cross cultural audience.

There is always a bridge a jeweler must cross when they decide to design not just as an art form, but also as a seller. How was that process for you and now that you sell to such a larger clientele, is it hard for you to hold on to that “art” mentality like before? 

I constantly struggle with that dilemma. Having a small team that we train from scratch helps me take it slow and never get too carried away with commerce. 

A lot of jewelers we’ve gotten to know have their “go to” rituals when designing, like playing a specific song on repeat for weeks or letting a film play, do you have any rituals you practice in order to get in the zone? 

I always find it is something different each time. One constant is I need to be able to hear myself think and procrastinate a lot before the creative juices start flowing! 

In some countries traditional techniques are very much respected, but since they focus so much on technique, it’s sometimes hard to create new things from there. Since you greatly value old concepts of techniques, how do you develop bringing in new designs from old techniques?

I was trained in jewellery design in London at Central Saint Martins. At that time I did not know I would explore old techniques so much. I had access to all kinds of new technologies and standardised pre-made pieces. But when I moved back to Lahore I realised I will have to make everything from scratch and that using old techniques was the most reliable method of achieving what I had in mind.

Your parents own one of the first ready-to-wear companies out of Pakistan, Generation, which you have mentioned you look to collaborating with them one day. Have you guys gotten to yet or any future plans on this?

I still plan to do it but get busy with my brand!

Super cool you grew up with parents who had an already established fashion company in Pakistan since 1983, how has this developed you into the business owner that you are today? Any upsides and downsides to this?

I was hanging around and designing at the factory a lot during my childhood. Playing with clothes. Doing shoots for them and graphic design. And being around my parents discussing fashion and business has obviously made some impact on me. It was a very creative and free environment which made me believe I could do anything. 

Can you tell us more about your workshop? How has the local community been shaped by this? Is there a strong sense of being between you and the apprentices?

The guys in the workshop joined the team with no experience or specialised skills from before. I taught them different processes in jewellery making by demonstrating and giving exercises to practice in base metal. I try to remember how I learnt jewellery making myself and teach them. When they got more trained they moved on to creating pieces in silver.

I’m quite involved in the training and try to keep everyone involved in the design development and share the success of the brand. The team is very proud to make such high quality and novel designs that stand out locally as well as internationally. Having this job and income has helped them build their houses, support their families and pay the tuition for their family members. 

Being a female designer and business owner whom also puts sustainability at the forefront of their brand, do you face any struggles?

Yes, in the beginning it was very hard to be taken seriously as a woman in this field, especially because in Pakistan the industry is dominated by men. It’s also really difficult to keep up with the pace of the market with the slow method of production that we have. 

We’ve never been to Pakistan before, but would certainly love to one day. How do you feel your jewelry designs and brand reflect your home country? Are there any practices or styles that are unique to your own country?

Lots of jewellery pieces originate from this region. Nose piercings, earrings that connect to hair ornaments, hair jewellery, anklets, belts, rings that connect to bracelets. 

Who would you love to collaborate with?

Currently I’m a big fan of Supriya Lele’s designs and would love to collaborate with her. 

Outside of jewelry designing, what kind of hobbies can we find you doing when you’re not in the work zone?

Drawing, doing interiors, designing my clothes.

If you could go back and tell yourself one thing before beginning your career as a jewelry designer, what would it be? 

I would tell myself not to do it! Haha, just joking. I don’t think I would’ve listened to anything then! But I would probably tell myself to get more experience working before starting my own label. 

How do you want women or men to feel when wearing your jewelry?

I want them to feel comfortable and empowered. 

What’s next for Zohra Rahman? What new projects are you currently working on?

It’s all so uncertain now. COVID-19 is making me rethink the whole system. I want to slow down and focus more on sustainability and block out the noise of rush and success from the world. 

  “It’s great that LVRSustainable is working on promoting sustainable brands and bringing more awareness on this topic. I think more stores should give exposure to independent and ethical brands as that’s the way forward.” 

A special thanks to Zohra Rahman