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Fashion

Icons of American Fashion

Characterized by youthful ingenuity and bold, free-spirited glamour, American fashion is trailblazing the future of global style. Today’s icons of American design share their perspective on the U.S.’s directional, enduring spirit.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY GILLES BENSIMON I STYLED BY KATE DAVIDSON HUDSON I WRITTEN BY ROXANNE ROBINSON

American fashion is as bold, free-spirited, glamorous and easy as the community from which it sprang. From once being followers replicating the finest designs out of Paris, the design community of the United States is now a directional force. Innovation, an active lifestyle paired with an ample textile industry helped define the uniform worn the world over, jeans and a T-shirt, the epitome of cool, relaxed American fashion. As far back as the Seventies though, Americans have shown they can compete with European ready-to-wear; case in point: taking home the top prize at the seminal “Battle at Versailles,” where American designer royalty — Halston, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Oscar de la Renta and Stephen Burrows — wowed the crowd not only with spectacular designs, but an exuberance and modern outlook. Fifty years later, creativity and entrepreneurship guide the industry, firmly cementing New York, the U.S. fashion capital, as a global leader. LVR profiles today’s stars of Stateside design to approach the spirit of what American fashion means to them.

 “Ease, Movement, Glamour”

Icons of American Fashion - 2
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Dress & Heels.
Icons of American Fashion - 3
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Tuxedo Jacket, Bandeau, Pants & Heels.

The elegant, all-American style of Michael Kors has been a part of the American fashion vernacular for four decades. To celebrate the milestone, Michael Kors literally staged his fall 2021 collection on Broadway. Partly a tribute to the sophisticated New York chic that is core to his brand, and partly to benefit his beloved theater community, the show effused effortless American flair and can-do attitude. It was a fitting anniversary celebration of the designer’s work, as he is the first to admit that if he weren’t creating a fashion empire, he would take his creativity to the stage. “Hands down, I would produce Broadway shows. I would be a producer,” he declares, adding the company supports the Roundabout Theatre in New York as well as one in London.

His early story could easily be turned into a Broadway show. Act I: A Long Island boy who loves fashion (primarily channeled through his mother, Joan), works his way through school at FIT as a salesman and lands a job as designer and visual display director at the now-defunct but seminal Lothar’s boutique on 57th Street. “I grew up 35 minutes outside of Manhattan, which was like the Emerald City to me. The streets are the ultimate runway and can make anything possible. I love to travel, but there was never any question where I would start my business.”

He describes American fashion at its best as a “combo of practicality and indulgence.” Take, for instance, the ubiquitous American uniform: jeans, T-shirts and sneakers. “Americans have a limited couture history, but we are the land of comfort — now, the world dresses in this outfit. It’s about real-life, rooted in solving problems and more influential than a ballgown.”

Americans have a limited couture history, but we are the land of comfort — now, the world dresses in this outfit. It’s about real-life, rooted in solving problems and more influential than a ballgown.

Being on the move, especially in mega metropolises like New York, Chicago and Los Angeles, has informed the designer’s work. “Life here was faster than other places. American life is about being on the move. Most women I know go from office to dinner, so its versatility and sense of speed define it.”

 According to Kors, the pinnacle of this global success story was dressing former first lady Michelle Obama for an official portrait. “She ushered in a new era for America and the world and did the first portrait where the first lady looked modern: jersey, bare arms, in all black. It wasn’t a suit and brooch.” 

Icons of American Fashion - 4
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Swimsuit, Skirt, Belt and Heels.

Equally a source of pride is the United Nations’ World Food Programme, which, supported by Michael Kors USA, has served more than 25 million meals. Kors credits fashion’s global nature to opening his eyes to the reality of the rest of the world. But it’s thanks to support from customers, as well. “To bring your customers and fans to a cause is inspiring. The positive of social media isn’t just showing someone your vacation, it is spreading a good word, raising money and awareness.”

“History, Culture, Values”

Despite her sophisticated grooming in one of the world’s great fashion capitals — Paris — Vera Wang established her brand, which was initially bridal dresses, in the pragmatic and industrious United States. Several factors contributed to that, but culture played a significant role in defining what American fashion is for Wang, ultimately influencing her namesake label. “The unique influences of American art, music, film, sports and technology have undeniable global implications.”

 The unique influences of American art, music, film, sports and technology have undeniable global implications.

Vera WANG

Wang grew up pursuing another American Dream — becoming an Olympic figure skater. She spent much of her childhood in the French capital with her mother, a client of haute couture, while her father had items custom-made at Hermès. She spent formative years figure skating and studying at the Sorbonne.

“I was always extremely influenced by Paris as a child, having spent a great deal of my youth there. Paris was my education and very much represented my exposure to fashion, food, and life,” Wang says.

 A certain freedom, ease and informality that reflects an American attitude.

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VERA WANG HAUTE Jacket & Scarf. Stylist’s own boots.

But as the saying goes, you can take the girl out of New York, but you can’t take New York out of the girl. For Wang, American fashion set itself apart with “a certain freedom, ease and informality that reflects an American attitude.” Her design approach draws from each. “I believe I am an amalgam of French culture and the Parisian experience, as well as the huge emphasis on cool, ease and modernity of the American lifestyle,” she continues.

The industry has also acknowledged this dual influence and approach. In 2013, Wang received the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Prior to that, she was honored as Womenswear Designer of the Year at the 2005 CFDA Fashion Awards. In 2017, France awarded Wang the Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, the highest French order of merit, either military or civil, established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802. A chevalier, or knight, ranking indicates a minimum of 20 years of public service or 25 years of professional activity with “eminent merits.”


For all her French pedigree, it was never a doubt where Wang would start her business. “I was born and raised in America. I also attended school and trained as a competitive figure skater in the U.S. It was both a logical and obvious decision, even though I did spend a lot of time in France from the age of 16.”

She began her professional career at Vogue as an assistant, rose to accessories editor, and then became the youngest senior fashion sittings editor in the storied magazine’s history. During that time, she was assigned to cover certain young designers and did a brief stint running the Paris office of American Vogue. She left the magazine world to become a design director for Ralph Lauren Women’s Accessories before establishing her brand in 1990.

She’s pretty clear that she would have pursued another uniquely American career — in Hollywood — if not for the clothing industry. “If it weren’t for my lifelong obsession with fashion, I honestly believe I would have become a filmmaker. Telling stories, creating characters and explaining the small and great ironies of life continues to fascinate me!”

 

If it weren’t for my lifelong obsession with fashion, I honestly believe I would have become a filmmaker. Telling stories, creating characters and explaining the small and great ironies of life continues to fascinate me!

Icons of American Fashion - 7
VERA WANG HAUTE Dress & Scarf.

“In America, style has always been about blending the dream with reality”

Ralph LAUREN
RALPH LAUREN Top & Trousers.
RALPH LAUREN Top & Trousers.

Ralph Lauren needn’t ruminate on what defines American fashion for long; his clothes have come to define American style for over five decades.

The Bronx-born designer’s well-known story of transformation began when he started selling wide neckties in 1967, audaciously landing a spot at Bloomingdale’s. His dapper style soon expanded from ties into a complete men’s wear collection and a branding juggernaut.

The label’s iconic Polo player insignia is one of most recognized symbols in the world and gave the knit three-button collared pullover shirt its name: the Polo shirt. Ralph Lauren’s classic, preppy and poised clothing line is synonymous with the United States style code for Americans and the rest of the world.

The brand celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2018 with a massive star-studded, celebrity-riddled audience — Robert De Niro, Oprah Winfrey, Bruce Springsteen and Hilary Clinton, among others — for a tony, exclusive affair, fitting for a brand that has its New York flagship in a mansion. The Ralph Lauren empire has expanded into numerous different product lines, including women’s, children’s, home furnishings, and even dining establishments, with a democratic approach to the offerings. While the affluent lifestyle is depicted in his brand message, the greater theme is that everyone can own a bit of the Ralph Lauren dream.

“Relaxed, Sleek, Modern, Glam”

Tom FORD
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TOM FORD Top, Sweater, Skirt & Necklace.

Returning to the U.S. after 30 years working in Europe and putting down roots in Los Angeles has had a profound effect on Tom Ford’s style point of view. “I can feel my taste shifting. A great deal, actually. Perhaps it has been the pandemic and more time at home, or perhaps it is the more relaxed lifestyle of L.A., but this season I am very much into a kind of glamour that’s still chic but more straightforward, and somehow still casual.”

He, of course, refers to the California ease that penetrates fashion the world over and exemplifies the American look. These days, this style is also influenced by Silicon Valley’s most prolific product to date — social media.

Increasingly, people don’t dress in fashion for day, but only for night. Or for social media. Instagram may be what saves fashion in the end. People now seem only to get dressed up in a major way for a red carpet or to fill their pages with shots of themselves in powerfully stylish clothes.

“Increasingly, people don’t dress in fashion for day, but only for night. Or for social media. Instagram may be what saves fashion in the end. People now seem only to get dressed up in a major way for a red carpet or to fill their pages with shots of themselves in powerfully stylish clothes. Black doesn’t photograph well, and so clothes need to be increasingly cartoon-like to have power on the tiny screens of our phones. It is altering our perception of beauty. It has certainly altered mine.”

He aims to infuse the hope he feels we could use right now into this collection, another uniquely American attribute.

Sports culture also influences style in American fashion and has been a popular theme for the designer. This season, it was his son’s basketball silks that sparked inspiration. Ford transformed that most American uniform, the track suit and tank, into bright, sequined, glammed-up versions ready to usher American ease into eveningwear.

Icons of American Fashion - TOM FORD Dress, Sweater, Necklace & Sandals.
TOM FORD Dress, Sweater, Necklace & Sandals.

“Innovation, Ease, Confidence”

Tory BURCH
Icons of American Fashion - TORY BURCH Dress, Bucket Bag & Arm Band Set.
TORY BURCH Dress, Bucket Bag & Arm Band Set.

Since opening her first store in 2004, Tory Burch has built a global fashion brand exceeding 300 boutiques worldwide, with another 3,000 stores carrying the label, making her a household name. The Tory Burch aesthetic draws influence globally, from her affluent parents’ effortless style, and the worlds of travel, art, interiors and the feminine spirit.

I’m always thinking about how my clothes can empower women to approach their day with more confidence, ease and joy.

However expansive her reach and influence, her brand is decidedly American, evoking optimism and happiness with its classic, enduring style. For her, style in the United States mirrors our lifestyle and more.

“American fashion is defined by beautiful, timeless designs that reflect the way we live. I’m always thinking about how my clothes can empower women to approach their day with more confidence, ease and joy,” she says. One thing is sure, American fashion has seen a lot of joy since Tory Burch launched her design empire.

Icons of American Fashion - TORY BURCH Top, Skirt, Necklace, Arm Bangs, Bucket Bag & Ballet Flats
TORY BURCH Top, Skirt, Necklace, Arm Bangs, Bucket Bag & Ballet Flats.

“Independence, Comfort, Diversity”

Reactions following Peter Do’s last two fashion shows fueled feelings of gratitude and support from the American fashion community for the designer. “People DM’d me saying they were proud to see an Asian and Vietnamese designer because it made them feel seen, represented,” he says. “I’m proud we carved out a space and created a seat at the table for people who didn’t feel like they had a voice before.”

This new wave of American designers is doing their own thing, such as Christopher John Rogers or Lana Johnson of Orseund Iris. Different business models here break the mold. There is space for everyone to do the type of business model that works for them. Have a show or not, do e-comm only, pre-sales, only trunk shows — whatever works for them.

Icons of American Fashion - PETER DO Handkerchief Trench, Skinny Shirt, Combo Sliced Skirt & Handkerchief Sandals.
PETER DO Handkerchief Trench, Skinny Shirt, Combo Sliced Skirt & Handkerchief Sandals.

Diversity in American fashion takes many forms for Do, allowing freedom to own the course. “This new wave of American designers is doing their own thing, such as Christopher John Rogers or Lana Johnson of Orseund Iris. Different business models here break the mold. There is space for everyone to do the type of business model that works for them. Have a show or not, do e-comm only, pre-sales, only trunk shows — whatever works for them.” 

This freedom extends to the emphasis on comfort, a tenet the designer feels was established by American design standard-bearers like Geoffrey Beene, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and even Helmut Lang, the Austrian designer who moved his company to New York in the late Nineties.

“Comfort is key. Good design doesn’t require sacrificing comfort or function and can retain the style,” Do proclaims. His goal is to help women build wardrobes that can be worn repeatedly. “My view on sustainability is buying what you will wear over and over again. It’s about longevity, creating a quality wardrobe with heirloom pieces to pass down.”

Icons of American Fashion - PETER DO Ao Dai Knit, Combo Pants, Summer Sandals & Dumpling Bag.
PETER DO Ao Dai Knit, Combo Pants, Summer Sandals & Dumpling Bag.

After honing his design chops in Paris and London, working for brands including Celine and Derek Lam, Do, raised in Vietnam and Philadelphia, returned to New York to launch his label in 2018. “New York feels like home. I am so inspired by the people here,” he reveals, adding, “I didn’t feel this in Europe, despite working at some of the biggest brands in those captivating cities. I am not the kind of designer who thrives on sadness and stress. Being around friends and family in a town where I feel at home is where I thrive best.”

New York doesn’t get as much love as other fashion weeks, but it’s a new time for American fashion. This new group does their own thing and doesn’t follow traditional rules. It’s what is best for your brand.

If he weren’t designing, he would be cooking. “My dad, who passed away 10 years ago, was a chef in the Army, and we spent time cooking together and bonding.” Plus, he sees creative synergies between fashion and the culinary arts. “Once you know the foundation and the basics, then you can make anything,” he asserts. Creative freedom expressed via clothes and food — Do’s happy place.

“Exciting, Transforming, Diverse”

Gabriela HEARST
Photographed by Zoë Ghertner.
Icons of American Fashion - Gabriela Hearst Tamara Dress & Adi Clutch & Striker Sandals.
Gabriela Hearst Tamara Dress & Adi Clutch & Striker Sandals.

The story of Uruguayan-born and raised Gabriela Hearst — née Perezutti — is the essence of the American success story: the immigrant who turns a dream and drive into triumph and satisfaction. Hearst first dipped into the fashion world as a designer when she launched the contemporary brand Candela, initially T-shirts, which drew from the South American cowboy culture in which she was raised. When she launched her namesake brand, she elevated the aesthetic. She took advantage of her ranching family values to explore a luxury offering using fine Merino wools, fabrics and fine-grain leathers. 

Her spring 2022 collection celebrates and supports Native Americans’ skills and design, while simultaneously incorporating handcrafted fabrics from Bolivia and Uruguay; each initiative employs female artisans. Thus, American fashion for Hearst is a combination of honoring native crafts and supporting women to create luxurious and thought-provoking fashion.

Being able to create beautiful pieces that are desirable and at the same time that empower others is probably one of the most satisfying professional experiences.

“The work we did with the Navajo community was serendipitous and a spiritual gift. It brought the Americas’ craft together in the collection, along with the work of Uruguay and Bolivia, both of the non-for-profits we work with. The impact of COVID-19 on mental health has affected many of those close to us. My best friend, Paola Pravato, narrates her circumstances. We used her drawing for our print this season and the crochet work on knits,” Hearst states. “Being able to create beautiful pieces that are desirable and at the same time that empower others is probably one of the most satisfying professional experiences.”

Icons of American Fashion - Gabriela Hearst Niki Dress, Adi Clutch and Striker Sandals.
Gabriela Hearst Niki Dress, Adi Clutch and Striker Sandals.

“Pragmatic, Glamorous, Conscientious”

“Impossible dreamers” is a phrase Singapore-born, Nepal-raised designer Prabal Gurung uses to describe not only his fashion story but that of the American fashion industry. “It’s the soul of the global fashion industry where two opposite styles — streetwear and Hollywood — collide and create this deeply rooted demarcation between style and substance. We may go to Europe for fantasy, but American fashion creates practical glamour.”

We may go to Europe for fantasy, but American fashion creates practical glamour.

PRABAL GURUNG Dress & Heels.
PRABAL GURUNG Dress & Heels.

The globetrotting Gurung draws his influence from several sources. “I have been able to imbibe and collect different parts of world culture,” he notes. More so, he has fully embraced the American Dream, referencing Barack Obama’s book title and philosophy. “A designer based here can dream. The first step is to realize your goals and ambition; this impacts your progress. The audacity to go for it is the courage to dream. It’s the land where if you truly believed in your story, you would succeed.”

Almost nowhere is this more evident than in New York City. “Every city has an identity rooted in artisans’ culture and history. The United States is a land of immigrants and misfits, and where new ideas are born. New, impossible dreams are realized in New York. Whether it’s about race, size, gender or related to political and social issues, it happens here first,” Gurung observes.

PRABAL GURUNG Dress & Heels.
PRABAL GURUNG Dress & Heels.

The United States is a land of immigrants and misfits, and where new ideas are born. New, impossible dreams are realized in New York.

Since launching his collection in 2009, the success of his label is an immigrant entrepreneur’s dream come true, having dressed former and current First Ladies Michelle Obama and Dr. Jill Biden, and TV’s first lady, Oprah Winfrey. “Gloria Steinem came to my show. She knew my work; I had written her a letter because I always admired her.” His passion for supporting strong, independent women has led to a foundation in Nepal that supports inmates’ daughters. What started with 12 girls now has 300, and positively impacts more than 100,000 lives.

Initially planning to start his business in India, the designer changed course after watching an Oprah Winfrey-themed show around living your dream.

He moved to the U.S. not knowing a soul almost two decades ago. “What I knew about America was through inspiring stories, and new designers were always encouraged,” he says, pointing to his collection, which is deeply rooted in American sportswear but with couture details. “Because of this, I can create what I love.”

“Refined, Confident, Deliberate”

Catherine HOLSTEIN
Photographed by Hanna Tveite.
KHAITE Marca Dress, Hugo Belt, August Hobo & Oliver Clogs.
KHAITE Marca Dress, Hugo Belt, August Hobo & Oliver Clogs.

Classic American sportswear is at the core of Catherine Holstein’s brand Khaite. The smart, sexy, sophisticated women’s line, founded in 2016, expresses a desire to capture those treasured must-have, must-keep items.

“I started thinking about my wardrobe and the pieces that I couldn’t imagine living without: my sister’s cashmere sweater from Paris, my mother’s Kelly bag, an old pair of Levi’s — these were the things that if I lost, I would crumble,” she says, recalling her brand’s origins. “In that, I realized there weren’t any brands offering these items that I held so dear to me. The core focus and inspiration for Khaite is offering these cherished items available — as a single destination — for other women to build their own.”

Women want forever pieces that they can collect and wear confidently for seasons to come. Khaite provides all of these pieces, from knitwear to handbags, in one place while embodying luxury through unmatched fit and quality.

American values of timelessness, craftsmanship and convenience come together as she creates classic, elevated wardrobe staples. “Women want forever pieces that they can collect and wear confidently for seasons to come. Khaite provides all of these pieces, from knitwear to handbags, in one place while embodying luxury through unmatched fit and quality.”

These values are what the 37-year-old designer feels sets the U.S. industry apart from the other fashion capitals, especially for her company. “American fashion is heavily value-oriented, and while sales and business agility are important, Khaite’s driving purpose is creating clothes that women want to wear again and again. Reviving classics in modern ways that suit the lives of our customers, while inviting them into our world,” she notes. “Inclusivity and connection are certainly key.”

Icons of American Fashion - KHAITE Cici Jacket, Gianna Dress & June Tote.
KHAITE Cici Jacket, Gianna Dress & June Tote.

“Ease, Innovation, Relevance”

Parisian-raised designer Joseph Altuzarra set his sights on New York when he left his role as Riccardo Tisci’s assistant designer at Givenchy to found his namesake brand. Part personal, mostly business, the young entrepreneur saw the American fashion industry as one of the most supportive when he launched in 2009. “This community was the only one embracing young talent then, with a lot of prizes and competitions plus a ton of support from retailers and editorial. I don’t think I would have achieved this level of success had I started it in Paris,’’ he maintains.

ALTUZARRA Meena Dress, Braided Bag & Asymmetrical Sandals.
ALTUZARRA Meena Dress, Braided Bag & Asymmetrical Sandals.

This community was the only one embracing young talent then, with a lot of prizes and competitions plus a ton of support from retailers and editorial. I don’t think I would have achieved this level of success had I started it in Paris.

His seminal American fashion moment was his first show. “In retrospect, it was this incredible conflation of different things coming together for a perfect moment. It put us on the map,” he recalls. His view of fashion in the States involves ease, but also a very personal perspective. Compared to other cities, “it’s very much a mirror and reflection of who creates it, wears it and the culture that we live in.”

Icons of American Fashion - ALTUZARRA Athena Dress, Hera Sweater, Crochet Belt, Braided Bag & Asymmetric Sandals.
ALTUZARRA Athena Dress, Hera Sweater, Crochet Belt, Braided Bag & Asymmetric Sandals.

His recently launched line, Altu, is Exhibit A. “American Fashion is leading the way. At this moment, fashion is coming out of its ivory tower and talking to different people with different backgrounds and perspectives,” he says. “Here, embracing new ideas and perspectives is the most encouraged. Change happens slower elsewhere.” He points to the industry’s progress in sustainability, gender equality and racial diversity.

American Fashion is leading the way. At this moment, fashion is coming out of its ivory tower and talking to different people with different backgrounds and perspectives,” he says. “Here, embracing new ideas and perspectives is the most encouraged. Change happens slower elsewhere.

These cultural shifts fascinate Altuzarra. “I’ve always been receptive to how culture is changing. I’m interested in politics, sociology and reading current culture. This idea that the brand is an ever-evolving interpretation of what’s happening in the world pleases me,” he adds.

The new collection stemmed from his views of traditional and binary gender in recent years. It all makes sense when he reveals what he would be doing if not a designer: “I would probably work in television as a producer. I love the culture of TV and TV shows, especially Euphoria.”

“Optimism, Joy, Ease”

Being an American designer has been a joyful experience for Brandon Maxwell. 

“I love watching anything to do with the love and happiness translated into women’s clothes. It’s everyone having fun, dancing, eating, drinking, the music, the team. I try to inject that at my shows,” says Maxwell, noting this was what drew him to the craft as a child. 

There was a joy for life, an irreverence to American fashion. I was an art kid obsessed with Andy Warhol, Halston, Liza Minnelli, Lynn Wyatt and Pat Cleveland. 

BRANDON MAXWELL The Kady Dress & Sandals.
BRANDON MAXWELL The Kady Dress & Sandals.

“There was a joy for life, an irreverence to American fashion. I was an art kid obsessed with Andy Warhol, Halston, Liza Minnelli, Lynn Wyatt and Pat Cleveland,” he explains. In elementary school, he devoured books about those fashion fixtures and read about American designers he considered heroes: Isaac Mizrahi, Todd Oldham and Ralph Lauren, whose clothes he especially longed to wear.  

He worked as a stylist, for celebrities as well as in editorial and advertising, before launching his line in September 2015. This allowed him to see the world, but his roots remained Stateside. “My company is definitely American. I am southern, and those qualities and traits are infused into my brand,” the designer says. 

“This is not an individual sport. It’s a team sport and a communal experience. Everyone is important,” he continues, noting the clothes are just one aspect. “It’s so much more than a dress — it’s the story you tell behind the dress. It’s not just me working toward the dream, it’s the young person who also came here to dream. We focus on the designer, but everyone has hopes and dreams tied up in the story. That is the American experience at its best. 

BRANDON MAXWELL The Stella Trench Coat, The Pamela Top, The Nautical Sweater & The Feather Mini Skirt.
BRANDON MAXWELL The Stella Trench Coat, The Pamela Top, The Nautical Sweater & The Feather Mini Skirt.

“There is effortlessness and ease to American fashion. In terms of the community, it’s a very familial place, not so much about the clothes but the behind-the-scenes people working toward that dream,” he observes. “American fashion doesn’t come with a big responsibility to heritage. That’s exciting: ease, individuality and sportswear are the cornerstones.” Thus, Maxwell’s pinnacle was a shared experience. “The first time we dressed Michelle Obama in 2016 for a state dinner was personally my most proud moment because it felt very much like the American dream.” 

American fashion doesn’t come with a big responsibility to heritage. It’s exciting: ease, individuality and sportswear are the cornerstones.

Reflecting on that moment has Maxwell pondering the more profound impetus. “Looking back on those art references, I dreamed I would be in New York around creative, thought-provoking, intelligent and empathetic people who saw the world in a glamorous way. I’m proud to have a business in New York, my home, that has the best talent.” 

Had his American dream not come true, Maxwell is content knowing he would have followed in the footsteps of his stepfather, who owned a commercial maintenance business. “I would have an excellent home-cleaning business. I’m a Virgo, and it’s very therapeutic for me. I do it the first few hours of the day. I’m good at it.”

“Joyful, democratic, free-spirited”

Haitian-born, New York-bred and European-cultured Victor Glemaud channels the hope and optimism of immigrants achieving the American dream through his successful line of knitwear. While it’s sophisticated and sultry, it is also democratic by design: “The idea that American fashion is celebratory and accessible to everyone, no matter their background,” says Glemaud “We don’t take ourselves that seriously.”

The idea that American fashion is celebratory and accessible to everyone, no matter their background. We don’t take ourselves that seriously.

VICTOR GLEMAUD Dress. MANOLO BLAHNIK Heels.
VICTOR GLEMAUD Dress. MANOLO BLAHNIK Heels.

He aims to bring joy and fun. “For my brand, it’s about feeling positive, glamorous, and celebrated. It’s inclusive for everyone.”  

Glemaud has had several ‘a-ha’ moments regarding inclusivity that leave him beaming. One was seeing someone wear his modestly priced collection for Target. The other was when he took model Ashley Graham to the CFDA awards in 2017. “A lightbulb went off, and I said I need to dress women of all sizes,” he recalls. 

His spring 2022 collection, an emotional post-pandemic journey, left him overwhelmed. “I was so excited for this show, I went to the bathroom and was crying tears of joy — it exceeded my expectations. I was emotionally invested in this collection post-pandemic coming out of a challenging time creatively and firing on all cylinders.”

My values and culture are what drives me — I’m from Haiti, Queens and a New Yorker; I can be confusingly demanding, but relaxed. It’s the beauty of being American, from different places and having different habits being from NYC — which is completely different from many places.

After working in design at Paco Rabanne and Tommy Hilfiger, helming a men’s wear brand and doing a stint in fashion PR, the designer launched his namesake brand in Paris in 2015. He knew he would return to New York to nurture and grow it. “I knew I had a network and support system here,” he reflects. “My values and culture are what drives me — I’m from Haiti, Queens and a New Yorker; I can be confusingly demanding, but relaxed. That’s the beauty of being American, from different places and having different habits being from NYC — which is completely different from many places. For instance, I don’t know how to drive.” 

 “I like things quick and effortless like a New Yorker, but to be fun and light, which comes from my Caribbean culture. My foundation has always been this idea that I would figure things out and have tenacity. That’s being black, Haitian and an immigrant. My parents came here and figured it out for themselves, their kids, their family. It’s all part of my spirit and what we are doing in terms of my brand.” 

“Sporty, easy, relaxed”

Icons of American Fashion - VICTOR GLEMAUD Dress. MANOLO BLAHNIK Heels.
ADAM LIPPES Bralette & Skirt. MANOLO BLAHNIK Boots.
ADAM LIPPES Denim Top & Bottoms. MANOLO BLAHNIK Sandals
ADAM LIPPES Denim Top & Bottoms. MANOLO BLAHNIK Sandals.

“American fashion is ‘fashion with a small f,” declares New York-based designer, tastemaker and bon vivant Adam Lippes. “It’s much sportier and easier than fashion in other capitals.” He launched his self-named line in 2014. “At its core, American fashion has the ability to mix and match, in effect, to [let you] be your own stylist.”

American fashion is fashion with a small f. It’s much sportier and easier than fashion in other capitals. 

Despite these polished looks, Lippes confirms comfort is also the main ingredient.  

“Americans, for the most part, tend to be less dressed, less fancy than those in a lot of other cultures,” he proposes. “So, I always need to keep this ease in mind when designing. It is my goal to give our woman elegance and refinement but also ease, without her feeling at all sloppy.”  

 It’s the classic “casual-but-pulled-together” look Lippes honed while working for Ralph Lauren. After a stint in investment banking, Lippes worked for Ralph Lauren at the East 72nd Street flagship.

 It is my goal to give our woman elegance and refinement but also ease, without her feeling at all sloppy.

“Being from New York and starting my career at one of the American sportswear greats, Ralph Lauren, there was never any doubt that I would have an American fashion brand.” After one short year, Lippes began to work for Oscar de la Renta, where he eventually became the sophisticated American ready-to-wear brand’s creative director — he was just 27. 

His exquisite taste extends to his entire universe, including interiors, his transformed Washington Square duplex, and his Brooklyn townhouse with partner Alexander Farnsworth. “If I weren’t a women’s wear designer, I would be an interior designer.” It’s a good bet that plenty of his clients wish he did both. 

Icons of American Fashion - ADAM LIPPES Top, Skirt & Hat.
ADAM LIPPES Top, Skirt & Hat.

“Exhuberant, Joyful, Bold”

Wes GORDON
Icons of American Fashion - CAROLINA HERRERA Dress & Earrings.
CAROLINA HERRERA Dress & Earrings.

Carolina Herrera creative director Wes Gordon has a recipe for making American fashion tick: “An awareness of the past, an eye to the future, but most importantly, a love for the ‘right now.’ A uniquely American combination.”  

The defining feature of American fashion for the 34-year-old designer involves “a modern expression of exuberance, joy and boldness, resulting in pieces that invigorate one’s day.” Anyone who has seen his interpretation of the House of Herrera has indeed left feeling invigorated by his dramatic, brightly colored, feminine creations.

I will forever be proud of dressing Vice President Kamala Harris when she accepted her nomination. It was a truly historical moment; the fact that she is the first woman Vice President and that this is a fashion house founded by a woman.

Born in Chicago and raised in Atlanta, the designer returned Stateside after studying at Central Saint Martins to work for legendary American designers Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford before venturing out on his own. He helmed his line for seven years, and his dedication to his craft is earnest. “I am always working. I am always designing. My work is my passion, and it is 24/7,” he admits. 

Ms. Herrera plucked him in 2018 to be her first creative director and share top billing with her. He doesn’t take lightly stepping into some pretty large shoes. “I will forever be proud of dressing Vice President Kamala Harris when she accepted her nomination. It was a truly historical moment; the fact that she is the first woman Vice President and that this is a fashion house founded by a woman,” he recalls, humbled to have played even a small role in American history.

Icons of American Fashion - CAROLINA HERRERA Dress & Earrings. MANOLO BLAHNIK Pumps.
CAROLINA HERRERA Dress & Earrings. MANOLO BLAHNIK Pumps.
TALENT: ALANA FELISBERTO @ NEXT MANAGEMENT. PRODUCER & MARKET EDITOR: JACLYN BLOOMFIELD. ASSISTANT PRODUCTION & FASHION EDITOR: LUISA SOTO. HAIR BY LUCA BLANDI @ ABTP. MAKEUP BY ANTHONY TULVE @ HONEY ARTISTS. DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: CASEY STEFFENS. PHOTOGRAPHER ASSISTANT: JUSTIN MULROY.

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IP-0A0050F3 - 2024-12-16T11:58:14.3719024+01:00