In a rapidly evolving fashion industry, Julie Pelipas, former Fashion Director at Vogue Ukraine and founder of luxury upcycling brand BETTTER, stands as a beacon of innovation and sustainability. BETTTER specializes in upcycling deadstock menswear into functional women’s suiting built intentionally to serve and uplift the female form by utilizing Sustainable Design Algorithms (SDAs) to transform unsold men’s inventory into functional garments. It is a system of design-led upcycling technology that works at an industrial scale—converting deadstock inventory into re-imagined garments, giving new lifecycles and revenue streams to what was once considered waste. Julie’s inspiration stems from the need to address the biases in traditional women’s suiting, aiming to create pieces that empower women through comfort and confidence. As an ambassador of the No More Plastic Foundation, founder of BETTTER, and all-around voice of sustainable fashion, she emphasizes the critical importance of scaling upcycling technologies for a sustainable future. We were lucky enough to sit down with Julie to talk all things BETTTER, upcycling, and the future of fashion. Follow along with us as she shares her visionary journey and her plans to help revolutionize the industry.
Julie, could you elaborate on the vision behind BETTTER and what inspired you to start an upcycling fashion brand?
I believe each player in our industry, every once in a while, gets this sense of ‘the industry is collapsing and we’ve gone too far’. BETTTER’s concept was conceived in my mind while I was still at VOGUE. Accessing the industry from the media doors gives you that 360-degree perspective on all ‘good and bad’ aspects. You see ‘how the sausage is done’. And what I permanently registered is that everyone, no matter the size of the business, is trapped in the same trap – the cycles and seasons that are served by old patterns of supply/production systems, and as a result, produce excessive inventory and zero solutions for a potential next life cycle for those garments. And then we have those ugly stories no one wants to talk about where clothes are burned, discarded, or (best case scenario) kept forever on financial balance dead stock. I appreciate such an impressive amount of startups in recycling, which is down-cycling – the contrary to upcycling. But we can do much more sustainably and smarter. And what came as the biggest surprise is that there are still not so many players in this field. Upcycling as a method was dramatically marginalized: perceived as some kind of art/patchwork thing that has nothing to do with technologies and long-term perspective for healthy growth. So it’s not invested in, explored, or believed in. I felt like I was in the business of talking for too long, so I wanted to step into the business of making a real effort into what’s pledged as a zero-waste future.
How does the design process work at BETTTER and how does this process differ from traditional design processes that do not involve upcycling?
At BETTTER we operate in the premises of re-design, which starts with the dead stock inventory analysis, which we automate with our proprietary software. As we partner with brands the very first stage of the creative process lies in meticulous research of the brands’ heritage and history, so that when we redesign garments the core DNA will be preserved and respectfully reinterpreted. This material-first approach ensures that each garment is unique and makes the most of the resources at hand. In contrast, traditional design often starts with a concept or trend, followed by the sourcing of new materials to bring that vision to life. Our process flips this model, emphasizing creativity within the constraints of existing materials.
Upcycling is often seen as a small-scale process of producing unique one-off garments due to the uniqueness of available materials, but your garments are available in various sizes, making upcycled fashion more commercial. How has BETTTER managed to scale up upcycling?
This is a deviation into a more niche practice closer to couture than a scalable business rooted within the context of the poorly researched field of dead stock itself. You see, there’s such a lack of data [about dead stock materials], so you’ll predominantly assume that dead stock by its nature is a batch of unique garments. In some cases, people might mistakenly associate upcycling with vintage or second-hand clothes reproduction, which is so far from reality. The depth per SKU in some dead stocks might be almost as big as the full-size collection. The nature and size of dead stocks are always different, and this is why we’re so focused on the technology behind the product. It’s a chicken/egg situation – such a product would be impossible to scale without technology, but it is also impossible to build technology without a product. So we do both. This model not only makes upcycled fashion commercially viable but also sets a precedent for other brands to follow, demonstrating that sustainability and scalability can coexist.
Your personal journey has greatly influenced BETTTER’s direction. How do you balance your personal style and vision with the commercial demands of running a successful fashion brand?
I have my very personal ’no bullshit’ policy, which is basically a very strong ‘reality check’, that we apply to each garment we create. I always joke that I create clothes for sober times. Jokes aside, I do believe that functional clothes of high quality and smart fit that are relevant to modern women’s demands are fundamental answers to all questions about sustainability. I make clothes with the female gaze in my mind. For her to make her own stunts. My personal journey of course is at the root of this notion. I’m living proof of how clothes might empower you and help you to create your own path in life.
What advice would you give to emerging designers who are passionate about sustainability and want to incorporate upcycling into their brands?
My advice to emerging designers is to be innovative in your approach to design and production. Collaborate with others in the industry who share your values, and don’t be afraid to experiment and take risks. It’s also crucial to educate yourself continually about new technologies and methods in sustainable fashion. Lastly, be patient and persistent; building a brand that truly embodies sustainability takes time and dedication, but the impact you can make is worth the effort.
What do you envision as the future of sustainable fashion and culture, and how does BETTTER plan to contribute to and continue to shape this future?
Education and continuous research. Currently, there are no dedicated programs for upcycling, and it is vital for us to give this knowledge, data, and tools to aspiring designers. We want to promote this new kind of mindset focused on the practice of working with already existing materials rather than creating new ones. BETTTER plans to contribute to this future by continuing to push the boundaries of upcycling technologies, fostering partnerships with other sustainable brands, and advocating for systemic change in the industry. We aim to be a leader in demonstrating that high fashion and sustainability can coexist and thrive together, inspiring others to join us in creating a more responsible and beautiful fashion landscape.
