In Conversation: Martine Rose

We’re excited to introduce you to one of our menswear designers.

There’s something innately cool about women designing menswear. Especially when that woman is Martine Rose. Subversive, against the grain, oversized, and never trendy. Instead of following trends, she creates them. You can see the influence she brought to the forefront when consulting with Balenciaga. The evidence is prominent. What’s next at one of the runway shows? Even Martine most likely isn’t sure yet. What’s the fun in planning? We caught up with the Jamaican-English designer that loves to wear men’s clothes and has a wicked taste in music. Scroll down to learn about her influences, rave culture, squared toed shoes, and a her ambitious work ethic.

What guided you to design menswear and what influences your collections?
I’ve always been drawn to menswear, it really just reflects my personal taste which has always been a preference to wear men’s clothes. Menswear always felt more rebellious to me- more rules and more ways to break them.

Your collection for SS20 exhumed a strong nostalgia of club culture and was brilliantly sarcastic. Would you say that these days fashion is being used as a form of resistance to the current political state of the world?
I would be more inclined to believe that blind consumerism in fashion in its worst form is being used to anesthetize people against resistance to the political state of the world actually. So the exact opposite. That doesn’t mean that I don’t think that there is absolutely the opportunity for clothes to be used as a form of protest and expression.

How was growing up in London and how do you think the underground scene there shaped you as a designer and as a person?
I think growing up in London during the time that I did has had a massive impact on who I am and what I am drawn to when I design. There were so many influences that I was surrounded by from a very young age, being from a mixed Jamaican English heritage I was influenced very much by the Jamaican English experience of first generation offspring carving out a new identity in a very multicultural city. The birth of rave culture and its massive political and cultural impact- so much influence came through from my older siblings and cousins to me at a young age and beyond.

Speaking of, what does the word underground mean to you? What would you associate with it? Which brands do you think emerged from an underground lifestyle?
I think underground is defined mainly by a commitment to self-expression usually contrary to the mainstream and usually finding or forming some sort of community that supports those ideas.. Music and fashion are usually important to more or less of a degree. True brands that emerged from underground scenes are brands like Vivenne Westwood, Pam Hogg, Body Map, Christopher Nemeth, BOY London, brands like Gaultier, Moschino and Versace didn’t emerge from the underground but were co-opted by it which was an interesting exchange.

What does fashion mean to you?
A commitment to self expression

Squared-toe shoes. Tell us more and the why behind it.
They were inspired by classic 90’s loafers which were a huge trend as you were not allowed to wear trainers to clubs so everyone had a classic loafer they wore.

Your brand began in 2007 and oversized silhouettes were prominent in your collections. Do you feel that wearing oversized clothes is a form of confidence and empowerment? How do you feel about oversized trends currently?
I think it was contrary to the norm and that what I was interested in- it felt quite subversive and new, and yes- in that there is confidence and empowerment. I think as long as you are making trends and not following them- do what feels good.

You’ve never compromised your vision or work ethic. I read an interview where the success of Martine Rose was described as a “slow-burning rise”. Your approach to the business is extremely admirable and it seems to be paying off. Can you tell us a bit about your journey into the fashion spotlight?
Thank you, that’s nice of you to say so. I think simply put I was given the opportunity to develop behind the scenes, figure out who I was and what I had to say away from the glare of social media and the pressure that that can often bring. I made lots of mistakes but learnt through them, I gained the confidence of refining and refining. I’m grateful for the slow burn now although at the time it seemed endless!

What’s your day to day like?
Fun, busy, hectic, creative

What’s currently on your playlist?
Everyone from Death and ESG to Marvin Gaye and Peter Tosh, I wouldn’t know where to start!

If you could have dinner with any 2 people (dead or alive) who would you invite and where would you go to eat?
Great Question! James Baldwin and Nina Simone I think as you would want there to be a rapport with all 3 of you and they were great friends

What’s your favorite place you’ve been to and why?
Jamaica, because it vibrates on a different level- its deep it’s a special magical place

What’s next for Martine Rose?
Who knows? I’m not much of a planner!