The designer defining the grey area between black and white.
“We’re at the beginning of what I believe is the ‘streetwear’ era of fashion – which is about doing it yourself, logos, irony, and satire” Virgil Abloh told 032c . “But it can also be chic, and refined, and elevated. That’s Off-White.”
Virgil Abloh is the ultimate hyphenate: DJ-architect-engineer-cinematographer-video artist-graphic designer-Kanye West’s stylist-creative director of Off White-collaborator-visionary-hype generator. Born in 1980 to immigrant parents in Rockford Illinois, Abloh’s upbringing was full of all things hip-hop, Michael Jordan and streetwear. After graduating with degrees in civil engineering and architecture, he went on to become the creative director for Kanye West and launched his first streetwear brand. Since then he has been expressing his ideas through many creative mediums and they hit on multiple senses. Off-White is extended across many platforms. It’s not just about on clothing, or music or branding or architecture. It’s multifaceted, just like Abloh. It’s not centered, it’s off. To go Off-White is to go off center. Abloh and Off-White live on the edge, where everything happens.
LUISAVIAROMA sat down with the designer in Milan and talked about luxury, street culture and where the future is headed.
How do you manage to bridge the gap between high luxury and streetwear?
I’m inspired by the people and places I visit. That bridge is modern and exists in things that interest me.
More than ever, designers are embracing street-culture. In your opinion what has changed? Why now and not before?
I think culturally the desire behind pure luxury has worn off. It’s a product of generations. The current generation naturally rejects some notions of the generation before it.
Who would you love to wear Off-White (dead or alive), and why?
I don’t think in terms like that. I make Off-White for the gratification of making it. Where it goes and what it does, I find interesting, but it doesn’t give me satisfaction in the same way as seeing my ideas come to life.
What do you hope people take away from the FW17 collections (men’s & women’s)?
I hope they see the natural evolution.
You recently added bags to your repertoire. What is next? Perhaps, kidswear?
Currently, I’m interested in retail. Off-White is a theory, not just in clothing, but space and objects just the same.
What is one thing people should know about you, that they probably don’t?
I love Martha Stewart.
Why did you decide to launch the brand in Milan, and not the states?
My company is based in Italy because the manufacturing is all produced in Italy and Portugal. There is a certain luxury and craft to making clothing, shoes, and handbags that I find important to my concept.
Your collections have been a huge hit with stylists, athletes, and musicians. Was this calculated or just a happy coincidence?
Happy coincidence.
What do you think it is about Off-White that excites?
The inherent contradiction of the concept.
Special Thanks to Virgil Abloh
This interview has been edited and condensed.
