Breaking into the sneaker world isn’t as easy as one would think, yet Axel Arigato managed to rise to the ranks in a seemingly effortless way. LuisaViaRoma catches up with the two co-founders of the cult-brand, Max Svärdh and Albin Johansson. The two have managed to hone in on their skill sets and work together to create one of the most hyped up brands of the moment. Beginning as a sneaker brand, Axel Arigato now designs clothing and accessories for both men and women and you can catch their looks all over some of our favorite style muses on your Instagram screens. Max and Albin open up to us about starting their brand, merging digital and physical retail, trends, consumerism, weekly drops and sustainability. What’s next for the too-cool brand? Scroll down to read the exclusive interview.
AJ: Albin Johansson (CEO & Co-Founder)
MS: Max Svärdh (Creative Director & Co-Founder)
Two are better than one. In many cases, this saying can be debated, yet when it comes to Axel Arigato, it is completely accurate. Can you tell us about how you both divide running the company and how your two styles of thinking compliment one another?
A: We’re both very hands on with all aspects of the business, while I focus more on the business side whereas Max’s main focus is on building the brand and design. We value art and commerce equally and you can’t be successful without realizing that. Besides that, we’re both quick to make decisions and don’t dwell on things for too long. We enjoy the same speed, which gave us confidence early on in the partnership.
M: My focus is brand and design, but I’ve always had my own businesses from the age of 17 and have previously worked within all aspects of e-commerce. We both share the same goals and vision for the brand which is the far most important aspect.
When did you two first meet? How did the idea of Axel Arigato come to be? Why did you choose the name Axel Arigato?
A: We met through mutual friends. Gothenburg is a pretty small place and when you have similar interests you’re most likely going to end up meeting each other. When it comes to how Axel was founded – we have both been inspired by clothing and footwear industries, and how certain brands managed to stay relevant for so many generations and for so many different target groups. So we wanted to create a brand that is constantly evolving and ever-changing.
M: We launched a sneaker brand because we saw a gap in the market for high quality footwear at an affordable price point. We just couldn’t understand why a pair of white leather sneakers should cost €400. However, we also said we always wanted to create something contemporary that could expand into a platform for new ideas and concepts. We felt like many brands out there were not changing as fast as the consumer market was, so if we could create a brand that can evolve at the same speed as the rapid consumer then we could constantly offer something that makes sense for today. The name Axel Arigato came from the idea that we wanted to create a name that could not be associated with anything else, a literary figure in its own right to shift focus from ourselves.
Do you believe that because of your non-fashion backgrounds, both of you bring something different to the table when it comes to design and your brand? Which are some of your most “outside of the box” ideas? (leading to disrupting the existing industry, etc)
AJ: When we launched Axel Arigato in 2014 we questioned everything, why and how you make things, what the customers actually want and how the customers would like to be communicated with. This resulted in that we did pretty much everything opposite to the industry standard and what was regarded as status quo. We went directly to the consumer, both in terms of sales and communication without any wholesale partners for the first years. We didn’t work with traditional seasons but released products on a weekly basis. We didn’t work with traditional seasonal collections, concepts and stories but created transeasonal products that would stand the test of time. We created a shorter supply chain so that demand for new products could be answered faster and to achieve a healthier inventory system. We viewed our physical stores as cultural destinations and not merely a transactional space resulting in weekly events and activations hosted in all stores and a store design layout that differed from the traditional sneaker stores which features floor to ceiling shelves on every wall. Today, a lot more brands are working like us but back in 2014 we were among the only ones. And people in the industry kept telling us we’re doing it the wrong way, but we’re glad we went with our gut and approached things as customers and not as industry veterans.
MS: The brand has succeeded because we are able to constantly adapt to the market. We are constantly reinventing ourselves, listening to what’s going on and taking influence from the next generation of consumers. Many brands out there have failed at this very simple idea.
What was it about the streetwear scene and sneakers that you were both so drawn to? How do you think the scene has changed and what do you think the future of streetwear will be?
MS: Always had a passion for sneakers and both of us have been working in the industry before and felt that something was missing. Sneakers is a very interesting product to design since it’s a small product with so many parts that you can tweak and change.
AJ: Even before covid-19 we saw that casualization was a big trend but now we see the demand being even higher to wear something comfortable. Today everything is “streetwear” so it’s hard to define what that even is but for me it’s more a mindset that people have changed and want to wear something that is more casual and connected to the wider culture.
Do you think the fact that both of you grew up in Gothenburg has a certain influence on the brand or the way you run your company? Is there something very Scandinavian in the future-forward way that Axel Arigato works?
MS: Minimalism is in our spine and something that has influenced our aesthetics in many ways: store design, products, interior, packaging, graphics etc. Since we don’t really have a solid fashion industry here we have always been looking at everything from a distance as an outsider. I think it gives us an interesting perspective.
AJ: We were determined from day 1 that we wanted to be a global brand. Sweden and Scandinavia will always be our home market, but it will also always be a small market. Therefore, becoming international and looking at other markets, cultures, behaviors etc is in our DNA. Understanding local trends while rolling out globally is crucial when having a brand.
When it comes to designing, what influences you? How do you keep a fresh perspective? What is it about Axel Arigato that has stood out in a mass scene of sneakers?
MS: Many things influence me, but I tend to look for inspiration from my everyday life. I really respond to what I see around me and I’m the most inspired to create something when I constantly travel or meet new people. Social media and digital content is also a great source of inspiration. At the end of the day, we’re a very product focused and customer obsessed brand. We wouldn’t create something that can’t be worn or doesn’t make sense in real life.
AJ: I believe that an open-minded attitude, combined with a deep understanding of our consumer and consistent product innovation, have served us well. Axel Arigato is so much more than just the product. With an emphasis on experiences, we aim to create the brand as a positive platform and forge real connections with consumers, inviting them into the world of Axel Arigato.
We’re going through an interesting time with Covid-19 where many brick-and-mortar businesses are suffering in an unexpected and grave way. In contrast, you’ve always had a strong e-commerce and e-retailer presence, how was this decided in the beginning? What can you say about the current situation and working in a digital way?
AJ: Working purely as a DTC brand back when we launched in 2014, it allowed us to solely focus on building our brand. We had no outside distractions and focused on spreading brand awareness. There are no limits online, you can be reactive and get the message out there within days, rather with traditional channels it’s slightly less possible. With current situations we have led much more into our old way of working, really putting our focus back into the online space. It has benefitted us massively as both the online traffic and demand on our website has grown exponentially.
How has Axel Arigato adapted to the current situation in 2020?
AJ: We’ve really put our focus back into our online presence, we are very used to utilising the online market for our success. Since the pandemic we have really strived to increase our dialogue with our customers on IG, Tik Tok and hosted multiple digital events. Despite the circumstances, we are confident that the team will come out even stronger with new invigorated confidence.
What would you say was the “big breakthrough” for the brand? When did you finally feel that you had made it?
AJ: For us, we knew we were on to something when we opened our flagship store in London and witnessed the amount of people that came by to visit it. It was a proud moment not just for us but for the entire team, seeing our own store not in our native Sweden but in Soho, London. It’s definitely a time we will never forget.
MS: Another memorable moment is the Posthuman festival we hosted in Copenhagen in 2019. It welcomed over 500+ guests and featured a great lineup of artists like IAMDDB and Anime and Earthgang. The event was free of charge for all the guests, and the fact that we could offer our customers that was super exciting. We want to continue to offer unique experiences and hope to follow up with a second festival.
You have a massive presence on Instagram and this helps to make customers feel a connection to the brand in a personal way. How has this helped shape the visibility of your brand? What other marketing strategies are you currently using?
MS: Our digital presence is important to us. We usually say Axel Arigato was born on Instagram, and not the pages of a magazine.. Platforms like instagram have been catalysts for us in relation to us communicating with our consumer base on a daily basis and building strong relationships. But we always need to rethink our approach because it’s constantly changing.
Let’s talk more about your Drop of the Week concept. You’ve been dropping a new colorway or silhouette, once a week, every Wednesday since 2014. How did this concept come to be? Is it invigorating? How do you continue to create something new in such a consistent way and still surprise us?
AJ: The thought process behind ‘Drop of the Week’ was that we’ve seen that brands were not changing as rapidly as the consumer and we wanted to make something different that fed the demand for new designs and silhouettes. With a world that is changing faster and faster each day, it’s important to create a culture that enhances the need for evolution. Why be a business if you are not listening to your audience and responding to change. This unique release model also helps Axel Arigato achieve a healthier inventory and also contributes to more conscious buying.
MS: The drop of the week concept also allows us to place the customer at the focal point for product creation and using constant customer feedback for development of new styles. When our customers talk and we listen, good things happen.
What are your favorite pairs of sneakers that you own? (Not including Axel Arigato’s, sorry! )
MS: At the moment it’s Northwave Sorle Boots, fugly but I like them.
AJ: Given the current weather in Sweden my favorites are a pair of ACGs from Nike.
You work a lot with influencers. Why do you think customers can relate so much to them? What do you think the future of influencer marketing will be?
AJ: People have always looked up to someone and will most likely always be. Social media has given normal people the opportunity that in the past only was given to celebrities. Therefore this phenomenon has increased so fast. The growth will probably saturate at one point but since new platforms keep coming up, such as TikTok, it will give unknown people the chance to get a following by being early adopters and offer something unique.
The future of fashion is sustainable. We’re seeing a shift of designers and consumers moving into a more conscious direction. How does Axel Arigato incorporate sustainability into its production and ethos? How can the fashion industry work to adopt more sustainable practices?
MS: The future of every industry is sustainable and socially conscious, which we take into consideration in every step of the business to make sure we are working in favor of the planet and people and not against it. We’re working hard to develop products that are as sustainable as possible, not only in terms of materials and production but also by creating transeasonal products that will outlast seasonal designs. We truly believe our products have several lifes which also means we encourage customers to re-sell or donate Axel Arigato products they no longer use.
AJ: We’ve also worked on making sure that 95% of our Autumn/Winter 2020 collection was made from either recycled or 100 % organic materials, a first step in the right direction. When it comes to our core footwear range, the soles are all made up from 20% post industrial rubber waste which is what we can offer today to ensure superior quality. Besides that, we are always rethinking all aspects of our business package, bio-product materials and packaging, logistics, in-store elements and leather sourcing, which we have strictly kept to Europe from selected trusted partners. Our long-term goal is for sustainability to be integrated into every aspect of the brand and day-to-day business. Minimizing the impact is a never ending journey and the ultimate goal is to continue to grow in a sustainable way.
How has this year and this experience changed the way you both live, in a professional sense and personally?
AJ: I love travelling to find inspiration and motivation which obviously has been impossible. Staying at home and my surroundings has been very nice in a way but I can´t wait to travel around again, to meet our partners and customers all over the world. Routines and structure are very much needed at some points, both personally and business wise, but it doesn’t give me joy long term.
What’s next for Axel Arigato? What can we expect in 2021?
AJ: We really want to continue to work on what we already offer our customers, but on a larger scale through bigger mediums, focusing on expanding our reach. Even though current circumstances have moved a lot of our focus towards online in the last 6 months, we still believe in our physical retail. Recently we opened 2 new stores in Germany, one in Munich and the other in Hamburg. We’re looking to open a store in Dubai, Paris and potentially another location in London.
A special thank you to Max and Albin.
Portraits of Max and Albin by Josefine Laul.
