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CR Runway

Carine Roitfeld Has Her Eyes on the Future

The fearless editrix talks CR Runway, the ‘90s, and Karl Lagerfeld
Carine Roitfeld Has Her Eyes on the Future - Street Style : Day Eight - Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017

If it weren’t for two important men in Carine Roitfeld’s life, the idea for CR Runway—her first-ever completely curated show after years of masterminding amfAR’s runway auction for charity—would never have been conceived. It was her son Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld, the president and managing director of CR Fashion Book, who was struck with this “crazy idea.” It was first his dream and then it became hers.

 

And once CR Runway became Carine’s prize, she turned to the second man in her life for some guidance: Karl Lagerfeld, the late visionary and close personal friend whose advice and words of wisdom she still turns to for everything she does. The biggest lesson she learned: Do something that has never been done before. Be fearless.

 

The Roitfelds found a partner in LuisaViaRoma to make their very first runway so incredible, it will go down in history as an event to be remembered. Revolving around the luxury retailer’s 90th anniversary, the show will have 90 looks and play on the theme of the ‘90s, a decade that Roitfeld herself refers to as the golden age of fashion. There will be iconic supers and fresh-faced models, all sporting a curated mix of designer looks from the Fall/Winter 2019 collections—an unprecedented concept in the world of fashion.

 

Here, the iconic stylist shares why CR Runway is unlike any other, how she assembled her dream team, what she was like in the ‘90s, and why her relationship with Lagerfeld was so meaningful.

 

What makes CR Runway so special?
“If you think about it, it’s never happened. I’ve been working on amfAR’s Cannes charity gala for seven years. When it’s for charity, it’s ok for these brands to work together and join forces, because it’s for a good cause. This time will be different because there won’t be a charity. It will be shown as a full collection with big brands like Burberry, Dior, Givenchy, and Prada all on the same runway, along with new and exciting talent. There will be big screens and special edition catalogues on the chairs for people to take home. A lot of the brands have said yes to this because they understand how big this event is—and it’s something I learned from Karl, who was always doing something that had never been done before.”

Carine Roitfeld Has Her Eyes on the Future - amfAR Gala Cannes 2018 - Show
Roitfeld at the 2018 amfAR Gala
Carine Roitfeld Has Her Eyes on the Future - 2012 amfAR's Cinema Against AIDS - Cocktails
Roitfeld and Lagerfeld in 2012

What was your relationship with Lagerfeld like?

“Honestly, I can’t believe Karl isn’t with us anymore. It’s been a few months, and it’s so difficult to live in the fashion world and not to be by him—it’s one of the bigger losses I’ve ever had in my life after my parents. He was my big protector for so many years. I learned so much from him. There is not one day I don’t think about him because he’s taught me so much. I was very happy and young and thankful because I learned so much from Karl in the 10 years I worked with him. He’s still in my mind. He was always the first one to for everything. He was fearless. He was the first person to create streetwear—it was 2004; I remember because I worked on it with him.

 

He was such a visionary. He was smart and educated. His advice will always be a part of myself: Don’t complain, love your work, keep working, but don’t be nostalgic, keep looking forward—those are the things I learned from Karl.”

Carine Roitfeld Has Her Eyes on the Future - CUBA-FASHION-CHANEL
Chanel Resort 2017

Do you think there will be any copycats after the first CR Runway?
“If there are—good luck. It’s a lot of work. It’s a huge production.

It has to be big, because there will be 5,000 guests—a mix of VIP and the public. It’s an homage to Yves Saint Laurent—when he did Défilé au Stade de France in Paris for the closing of the coupe du monde football in 1998 [the closing ceremony of the 1998 World Cup]. It’s also like Chanel’s Resort 2017 show in Cuba because it was open to the people of the city—it was outside and they could see it from their windows. It’s these moments in fashion that I want to mix in and make this a special catwalk.

 

Imagine, a lot of people who have never seen a fashion show in their lives. CR Runway will be open to new people and of course, it’s to honor Florence the city. There will be screens in different parts of the city, and it will be online, so people can follow the show all over the world. And it’s really because of LuisaViaRoma that this catwalk is possible.”

Carine Roitfeld Has Her Eyes on the Future - CUP-FR98-BRA-FRA-YSL-SHOW-MODELS
YSL 1998 World Cup show

You’ve assembled a dream team. Are they your family?
“We have Sam McKnight, the hairdresser; Tom Pecheaux, the makeup artist; Piergiorgio Del Moro, the casting director who worked with me for amfAR; and Michel Gaubert for music, who I’ve known for a long time. And since it’s a ‘90s tribute, there’s going to be a special performance with Lenny Kravitz, because he’s a celebrity in the ‘90s, and he loves fashion and people love Lenny Kravitz. We think big.”

 

Why the ‘90s?
“It’s LuisaViaRoma’s 90th anniversary, so the number came from that. And when you talk to fashion people, they always refer to the ‘90s as the golden years of fashion. Everyone is inspired by the ‘90s: the dress, the catwalk. There was Margiela, the beginning of Gucci, Gianni Versace. And the music, too—it was an explosion of new talent.”

 

What about yourself and your career in the ‘90s?
“I started with Tom Ford in the ‘90s. It was amazing. There were a lot of exciting things happening in the ‘90s. All the designers today, they always think about the ‘90s.”

 

Is there a moment from the ‘90s that you would want to relive?
“There was a lot of freedom to do everything. My best moments as an editor was in the ‘90s—when you see my book, the beautiful pictures are the ones I made during that time. I was fresh and fearless, and I had a sense of humor. There was a lot of humor then that is lost today. So many ideas came to me back then. I was spontaneous. I hope I’m still fresh, but I’m not as fresh, that’s for sure.”

 

What do you think of today’s obsession with the ‘90s?
“It’s not going to be a nostalgic show because I don’t think it’s good to stay in the past. You have to go forward. It can always be an inspiration, but this show is not going to be nostalgic at all. It’s about today, but it’s just inspired by the ‘90s.”

 

We’re a few weeks away from the debut of CR Runway—how do you feel?
“We started last planning last November and it seemed far away, and now it’s in two months. Everything’s in motion—we cannot stop the machine. I’m hoping it will be a magical moment for both us and for LuisaViaRoma, because we put everything in this to make it a fantastic moment.”

Carine Roitfeld Has Her Eyes on the Future - Balmain : Arrivals - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2018
Roitfeld and her son Vladimir in 2018

What’s next for the CR brand?
“We’re going to keep doing the CR calendar—the past year’s was made with Estee Lauder. We’ve launched a second CR Fashion Book in Japan. I want CR Studio to be bigger, but maybe we can have a little holiday after CR Runway. It was Vladimir’s dream, and now it’s my dream. Just like Carine Roitfeld Parfums—that was my dream for eight years, and now, because of him, it’s happening. Vladimir’s strength and energy is a gift, especially for a mom. My dreams are happening and his dreams are happening—it’s not going to stop here. It’s just the beginning of everything we want to do.”

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